Amira Marion, Parsons The New School
Amira Marion grew up in Ann Arbor, Michigan, a small hippie city devoted to recycling. When she moved to New York she found it difficult to compromise her environmental values for the other thing she loved most- fashion. Luckily with a bit of research and ingenuity she was able to continue her quest and find solutions to integrate sustainability into her projects, and even get a taste for the eco-fashion industry at an internship at Edun. She is currently a senior at Parsons School of Design, creating an environmentally friendly senior thesis collection. and beginning to work on collaboration line of printed organic t-shirts with fellow eco-design classmate Judy Lee.
Description:
My inspiration comes from my built environment: New York City. Everyday I travel from to school, around the city and eventually back home, being subjected to many different temperatures, from the overheated classrooms to the freezing subway platforms. Layering is the essential clothing lifestyle in New York, and I chose to call this mini-collection Urban Nomad, for the everyday traveler within the city.
Look #1
The ecologically minded idea that I will focus on is fabrication, specifically and the elimination of pesticide use. I will achieve this through the use of hemp, organic cotton, silk and flax. I also digitally printed my own designs. Digital printing has no runoff inks, making it a nice eco alternative to screen
printing or roller printing. My first submission is a winter coat made from organic cotton/hemp canvas, and lined with organic cotton sheeting with alpaca/wool fill. The fabric is digitally printed in my own print design. The middle layer is a dress made from digitally printed fabric in a silk/flax blend. The underlayer is an undyed organic cotton/hemp jersey leggings and a Henley with a quilted back yolk in the same fabric. All knitted accessories will be knitted with 100% alpaca yarn.
Look #2
For this look I chose to explore was the elimination of pesticide use, and the maximization of animal byproduct. Merino wool produces four times the amount of hair per square inch than other wools, and alpaca is naturally eco-friendly animal fiber, raised domestically in Peru, and treated with natural dyes. I also digitally printed my own designs. Finding a way to pair natural undyed fabric in an aesthetically pleasing way is another focus of the collection. Seldom do we see natural, undyed clothing in anything other than muslin form (or those new eco-canvas shopping bags popping up everywhere). My second submission is a low crotch pleated pant in organic cotton flannel, with a men’s-tailored trouser waistband. This will be paired with a digitally printed organic cotton interlock shawl collar longsleeved shirt. The third layer is a merino/alpaca capsleeve wool sweater. All knitted accessories will be knitted with 100% alpaca yarn.
Look #3
Like looks #1 and #2, I explored ways to eliminate the use of pesticides during the fabrication production process. I will achieve this through the use of hemp, silk, organic cotton, modal (a reconstructed cellulose fabric from beech trees. It is 100% biodegradable). I also digitally printed my own designs, and continued to create ways to integrate natural, undyed organic fabric harmoniously into the collection. My third submission is a four-piece ensemble, consisting of a digitally printed cropped vest in a silk/flax blend. A batik printed t-shirt in modal/organic supima-cotton blend. Over this is a reversible anorak jacket; one side is a digitally printed hemp/organic canvas and the other in organic cotton flannel. This is paired with a double button jean skirt with a quilted yolk, in undyed hemp/organic cotton denim twill. All knitted accessories will be knitted with 100% alpaca yarn.
Ashley Newsome, Savannah College of Art and Design
Ashley Newsome is a fibers and fashion graduate student at the Savannah College of Art and Design pursuing a Masters of fine art in Fashion. She acquired a BA in Art and Design and a Minor in Apparel Technology from the North Carolina State University College of Design and College of Textiles. Her history of study has directed her interests towards surface design in fibers and sustainable clothing design. She is interested in the advancement of craft culture as well as the implementation of green practices in fashion industry. She is originally a North Carolina native from the coastal town of Lake Waccamaw. Her rural upbringing has influenced her interest in folk art and the handcrafted aesthetic. Her present work in fibers and fashion is a culmination of various surface design techniques and modern design aesthetics. She views her work as a marriage between historically inspired techniques and modern style. A love for indigenous cultures has led her to pursue research within the fields of anthropology and sociology. She is currently aspiring to create a design cooperative in collaboration with artisans in an effort to preserve craft culture and to inspire a new aesthetic, which is sustainable as well as artistically influential and socially conscious.
Description:
For this project we will be dealing with the reuse of preexisting structures and materials in a new and innovative way. My garment will fully assess all of the materials that are acquired for the construction of the garment. I plan to create a look that uses 100% of the fabric creating 0% waste. I will achieve this design through creative pattern drafting. The patterns will be sent to a CAD laser pattern cutter to ensure accuracy and efficiency. By deconstructing and utilizing all of the fabric waste we are taking steps towards making our world more conscious of what a disposable society we have become. As we set out as consumers to buy “pre-trash”, goods which will never be reused or recycled, our world is in turn is becoming overpopulated by garbage and discarded goods that will soon begin to infiltrate our lives and our natural environment. I am a graduate student at an art and design college in a beautiful port city located in coastal Georgia. Savannah, the nation’s first planned city, which lies on a natural coastal marsh much of which still lies untouched by the human hand is the setting for this scene. The downtown area of Savannah is a visual wonderland of 18th century homes that have been inhabited by numerous families and caretakers over the years, some of which have had residents living under their roofs since their historical construction. This environment is not only influential to my work in fashion and fibers, but is a very integral part of the cultural setting of the city, which has a vibe that can be described as energetic calm. The city buzzes with excitement and creativity solely due to the picturesque setting and visually intriguing surroundings but also retains an easygoing pace. This city is the perfect example of how the built environment can affect one’s disposition and encourage balanced and thought provoking work. Downtown Savannah Georgia has conserved its built landscape and utilized these historical spaces for all types of uses. As time has progressed, the historical buildings have been restored and adapted to the needs of the modern inhabitant as an alternative to a full reconstruction. -LAN
Cynthia McMullen, North Carolina State University
Originally from College Station, Texas, Cynthia McMullen moved to Los Angeles to pursue a Textile Design degree with a concentration in Knitwear Design at FIDM. She worked in the fashion industry for a few years as a technical sweater designer. She attends North Carolina State University in Raleigh and is pursuing a double major as an Anni Albers Scholar in Art & Design and Textile Technology. She loves knitwear and designing from yarn to a fully-fashioned garment. Her garment displays the ecological design principles “long vs. short life analysis” and new technologies. She used laser cutting technology to cut the dress she designed. Additionally, the knitwear style she chose is a timeless shape that any woman can keep in her closet for years to come.
Description:
As the rug manufacturing company closed, the building remained. The renovated interior is converted to industrial lofts in downtown Los Angeles. As the exterior remains the same, the interior was transformed to modern concrete open air lofts. Using the conversion of this structure, I am inspired to convert wool yarn into fabric and then into a fully-fashioned garment. The ecological design principles that I have utilized are the long vs. short life analysis and new technologies. Utilizing the life span of this outfit is essential; the two piece garment contains elements that support sustainability. A knit dress and chunky knit shrug properly cared for will last for generations. This shrug represents timelessness. The a line dress is always flattering to a woman’s figure. Going out to dinner in her twenties, then in her thirties and forties, she will wear it, as long as she still has the figure. The details in the center of the bodice reinforce the ecological design principle of new technology. The dress will be laser cut into square sections to weave ribbon in and out of the perfectly cut square segments. Inspired by the windows from inspirational image, the ribbon is weaving around the bodice around the back to create a dynamic element to this dress.
Daphne Woo, Parsons The New School
Daphne Woo is studying Fashion Design at Parsons and works as a PR and Wholesales Assistant at Comme des Garcons. Before moving to New York City, she completed her BA in Sociology and English at the University of California Los Angeles. She has fashion and editorial internship experience with TSE, WWD, and Alexander McQueen.
Description:
The silhouette of my garment attempts to recreate the effect of Renzo Piano’s Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Center. The pod-like shape of the coat draws comparison to the curved iroko wood slats of the Center, which itself seeks to mimic the traditional kanak huts ensconced in Noumean nature. My attraction is to the structures’ dualities - they are structured but also completely penetrable by wind and light. In consideration of the ecological design principles put forth, all fabrics chosen are organic or among the least taxing on the environment: a combination of bamboo (does not utilize pesticides or herbicides), hemp/silk blend (biodegradable, and nourishing to the earth) and felt will be used. The latter is Ecospun, using recycled post consumer plastic bottles as its main constituent. I have also been granted the opportunity to incorporate samples of Nuno’s green fabrics, some of which are biodegradable and beneficial to the earth. Although eco-friendly garments often rival traditional ones in prices, the misconception exists that green designs are not luxurious or long lasting. A basic goal of this project is to create a garment that can be cherished and is capable of sustained wear (as opposed to disposable and therefore, wasteful). The accompanying computer chip necklace is comprised of RAM from the early 90’s. Its incorporation into the design as an accent shows the manner in which seemingly outdated and ineffectual items can be reinterpreted and imbued with new meaning, even if repair is not an option.
Ivy Higa, Parsons The New School
In pursuit of her dream of becoming a fashion designer, Ivy Higa left Hawaii and moved to New York City, enrolling in the prestigious Parsons, The New School for Design. This spring she begins her coursework to an AAS degree in Fashion Studies. This will be her second degree, with the first a BA in Art. With a background in fine arts, her look consists of a fabric which was hand-painted by the designer herself. She works full-time as a design assistant for a bridge company while taking a final course to fulfill her degree requirement.
Description:
Recently at our school, we had a renovation of our 13th St. campus of Parsons, the New School for Design. What I found most interesting about this renovation was one of the walls that was part of the inside structure of the building. It is reminiscent of a bark of a tree, but in actuality, is textured plaster. I loved the feeling of being lost in nature, however, while looking around I was still in the middle of the ground floor of campus. With the inspiration of the wall, I recalled having a fabric that resembled wood. Long ago I purchased it from a woman I knew whom collected organic silks. I love the fact that it’s organic not only for the good of the earth, but also because of its character; some parts of the silk show where the mature silk worms ate through its cocoon. My primary garment will be constructed out of this organic silk to give a feel of nature and serenity. I also am a strong believer of low-toxicity in dyes and fabric treatment. With this belief and with a background in fine arts, instead of finding already printed fabric, I opted to hand paint on natural silk to eliminate waste. This fabric I plan to use as lining for my secondary garment. I feel strongly about keeping waste to a minimum because I grew up in such a beautiful place such as Hawaii that I want to perpetuate that beauty for our future.
Judy Lee, Parsons The New School
My designs are inspire by the architecture of the Greek island Mykonous. I visited the island during a month long backpacking trip in Europe and while I was there, I’m immediately struck by how the built environment of the island and its surrounding natural landscape harmoniously complimented each other. Its been a year since my trip and I can still vividly remember the island’s mostly white, cave-live structures with their wonderful geometric cut out windows and all the color-painted door frames in the most brightly saturated hues of red, yellow, seafoam green, turquoise, and multiple shades of blue. Clearly, the architecture of the island takes it’s surrounding into consideration and the man-made structure is a way to enhance the visual dialogue between the nature and artifice. Not only is the architecture of Mykonous the source of inspiration for my design but it also relates to my design philosophy in which natural and ecology are pivotal elements of my creative process. When creating the looks for this competition, I incorporate the use of organic cotton and sustainable blends such as hemp/flax and hemp/silk as the bases of material. However, I don’t want the clothes to scream “eco” or “green” but rather to have beautiful garments that should be equally as relevant and well thought out even if it’s not made out of eco-friendly material. Using ecological fibers is simply one of the many choices I’ve made as a designer. Also, since color-blocking and prints are essentially the DNA of my design aesthetic, I don’t want to comprise the use of these two essential elements when designing my looks. Therefore I would digitally printed my own print design to prevent ink-waste and ideally I want to use low-impact fabric reactive dyes to achieve the colors that I desire if the service is available for sample-making. My designs are playful, fun, loose, and with a bit of quirkiness in them but still wearable. The clothes themselves have enough of their own unique identity and that defies trend but still have an easy enough silhouette that can be easily mix-and-match with other closet staples. Last but not least, my clothes would have eco-labeling made out of organic cotton twill tape to inform the consumer about the ecological aspect of my design.
Maritza Romo De Fusco, Parsons The New School
Maritza Romo de Fusco, a Fashion Studies major at Parsons, was inspired by Morimoto New York restaurant located in the Meat Packing District and designed by Tadao Andao. “This space brings into focus art, playfulness, sophistication, and use, which I consider to be important elements for evoking visual and interior satisfaction in the person, regardless of age, gender, or ethnicity,” Maritza says, “Furthermore, I want to transmit these emotions into my garments by integrating environmental awareness based on the principles of dyes and water consumption, long and short life analysis, as well as waste reduction by natural feeding.”
Description:
Finding inspiration in the built environment for my designs has been personally rewarding and inspiring since there is so much that one can learn from others. My work has been influenced by Morimoto New York restaurant, located in 88 10th Avenue (Meat Packing District) and designed by Tadao Andao. This space brings into focus art, playfulness, sophistication, and use, which I consider to be important elements for evoking visual and interior satisfaction in the person, regardless of age, gender, or ethnicity. Furthermore, I want to transmit these emotions into my garments by integrating environmental awareness based on the principals of dyes and water consumption, long and short life analysis, as well as waste reduction by natural feeding. The target group for my designs is young mothers (24-38) during the breast-feeding period. This group has been hardly taken into account since bottle-feeding has become common, without considering how beneficial breastfeeding is for the baby and the
environment. The construction of the garment allows young moms to easily reduce waste and water consumption, as well as to give the garment a long life cycle and use natural dyes. Reducing waste can be accomplished since the upper part of the garment (up to the breast level) is detachable and connected with buttons. This facilitates the feeding of the baby, giving the option to the mom to change tops, without having to waste water by washing the entire garment. This also prevents the accumulation of waste from formula cans. Similarly, even when these garments are being designed for a breastfeeding period, they can also be worn after this period since the garments emphasize good taste, coolness, elegance, and practicality. As a result, the life cycle of the garment extends. Lastly, in order to provide the mom with alternatives, the changing tops are designed with natural dyes, such as coffee or tea, which harmonize with nature.
Rhiannon Taylor, North Carolina State University
Rhiannon Taylor is a Textile Technology/Design and Visual Arts major at North Carolina State University, utilized unbleached and undyed yarn fibers in her design. “All of the yarns are primarily cotton, a few are cotton/ polyester blends,” Rhiannon says of her unique textile. The yarns used to make the fabric came from donated and found objects. Rhiannon is participating in her school’s annual fashion show “Art to Wear” this spring. She has also been a volunteer at Ten Thousand Villages in Raleigh, a local fair trade & non-profit store, for over 3 years. Last summer Rhiannon interned at Polo Ralph Lauren in NY, where she worked in the Women’s Knits department for both Blue Label and Golf & Tennis. Two summers ago she studied conceptual art in Prague, Czech Republic.
Description:
I chose the image of a satellite because I think it reveals how advanced we have become as a society yet we have not figured out a way to make these unnatural inventions coexist aesthetically in our natural environment. I want my garment to represent certain key aspects of the satellite; the strength of its structure, its sculptural shape, and its artificial omnipresence in society. The top will consist of plaster impregnated gauze molded to the models upper body, covered with threads. The bottom will consist of yarn fabric sewn into the plaster. Yarn fabric is a variety of yarns sewn randomly together and stabilized with alginate foil. Several of the ecological design principles will be incorporated into this piece. I will be using almost completely natural materials. All of the yarns are primarily cotton, a few are cotton/polyester blends. The yarns are unbleached and undyed. The yarns used in making the yarn fabric are donated/found objects (re-used). This piece will also have a long-life, I plan for it to be a sculptural art piece that can be worn as a garment or shown as an installation.
Tamara Theurer, Colorado State University
Tamara Theurer is a senior interior design student at Colorado State University graduating in May. She believes designing for the environment can bring about the best design solutions whether it is for fashion or the built environment. She is currently a member of the National Society of Collegiate Scholars and the International Interior Design Association CSU Student Chapter, as well as having been a member of several volunteer and community service organizations.
Description:
The Katelyn Dress- Inspired by the Fort Collins Police Services BuildingThe garment uses recycled and rapidly renewable materials in its quest to create a casual look that exemplifies green design principals and is still remains comfortable. The inspiration for the design came from the newly constructed Fort Collins Police Services building that is seeking LEED certification. This facility is inspirational not only for the exterior aesthesis, but for the activities that occur within the building. Just as the police department protects the citizens of the city, the clothing protects the individual person. The top portion of the ensemble is made from bamboo fabric; the middle wrap around section is made of semi‐transparent cotton voile; and finally the skirt is made from yeans that I’ve collected over the years that holes holes in them, and are no longer wearable as the original intended use. Each outfit would be completely unique in that the jeans must be hand sewn and each is completely random. In this outfit elements of the Fort Collins Police Services building can be seen. The straight black lines on the top; the main entrance, and the expansive glass windows in the skirt are all features of the building that make it recognizable to the citizens of Fort Collins.
The Kathleen Dress - Inspired by the Fort Collins Police Services Building. This flexible design incorporates renewable materials and reused materials as well. Inspired from the Fort Collins Police Services building the garment includes both the features and color scheme of the facility. The facility is a symbol of protection and safety and is also a LEED registered building. The outfit creates a sense of this because of the flexibility of the garment. The garment is flexible in that it can transform from a full length gown to a knee length gown with a coverlet to protect the person. The main portion of the garment is made of bamboo fabric that is soft to the tough among other beneficial features. The bottom portion is constructed of semi‐transparent cotton voile giving an airy appeal to the dress. A reused belt makes up the straps of the garment. The features seen in the garment that are also seen in the building are the white folded fabric areas that can be seen at the main entrance of the facility, and the blue represents the vast windows that surround the building. The black is the main support for the building and the garment. Whether looking for a night on the town or a casual date, this dress is flexible to the needs of the user and environmentally friendly.
Vanessa Mieger, Parsons The New School
I grew up in San Francisco, CA where I went to a very liberal high school called The Urban School in the Haight-Ashbury that gives no grades and where I was able to take lots of arts classes and explore my creative side. I then went on to Boston University where I received my Bachelor’s degree in Advertising and also studied Art History and Psychology. I am currently studying fashion design at Parsons The New School and loving it. Designing and creating has always been my passion and it feels good to put all my effort into that passion!